AMDANI

Description: The Jamdani technique of weaving originates in the Indian region of Bengal and is one of the most complicated and intricate types of weaving. The name, Persian in origin, means flower, ‘jam’, and vase, ‘dani’. Historically, the motifs were geometric or floral in nature and were commonly made with metallic threads called zari. Instead of the supplementary weft going from one selvage to the other, the motif is created by passing a small bobbin through specific sections of the warp by hand in between throws of the shuttle. The Jamdani technique can only be created on a hand loom and yields a clean, neat finish on the backside of the fabric that won’t fray.

Average Lead Time for 1 loom, 1 month = 1.5-15 meters

Features of technique:

• -maximum motif size 3.5”, or 7” maximum for mirror image motif
• -no color limitation -range of sheerness possible
• -change in motif color
• - motifs can be woven on different bases (katan, crepe) for variation of texture

Limitations of technique:

• -not a very tight weave
• -cut work not possible

BROCADE

Description: Very closely associated with the city of Varanasi, or Benaras, Brocade is a class of richly decora- tive shuttle-woven fabrics, often made in colored silks and with or without gold and silver threads. The name, related to the same root as the word “broccoli,” comes from the Italian word broccato meaning “embossed cloth”. It is a supplementary weft technique, where the ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The purpose of this is to give the appearance that the weave actually was embroidered on. Varanasi is renowned for its Benarasi brocades, coveted and worn largely for weddings and special occasions.

Average Lead Time for 1 loom, 1 month: 8 - 17 meters Features of technique: - intricate, multi-colored designs Limitations of technique:

• - depending on design and use of multiple colors, can have greater lead time

PAWRI AND CUTWORK

Description: Pawri refers to a technique of weaving fabric tightly so that it can sustain a post-weaving cutwork process without fraying. It is often woven by younger weavers due to the increased level of physical strength it requires to weave the fabric tighter.

Cutwork refers to a post-weave process of cutting floats on the fabric to enhance the motif design, creating texture and variations in the opacity of the fabric. Generally, our cutwork is completed by women in the vil- lages.

Average Lead Time for 1 loom, 1 month = 15 meters

Features of technique:

• - can be used to create multiple transparencies in the fabric
• - can be created with silk or cotton/silk blends

Limitations of technique:

• - fabric must be woven tightly to prevent fraying after being cut
• - time consuming Best uses: Running fabric, scarves, pillows

EK TARA

Description: Ek Tara word come from local community which mean “one wire”. It’s refers to a technique of weaving fabric tightly and enhance motif or complax pattern very sharp and clean. It is often woven by younger weavers due to the increased level of physical strength it requires to weave the fabric tighter.

Average Lead Time for 1 loom, 1 month: 12 - 17 meters

Features of technique: - intricate, multi-colored designs

Limitations of technique:

• - depending on design and use of multiple colors, can have greater lead time